Posts Tagged ‘Engine’
Posted by
admin on Jun 27th
I suspect I may have some water in my gas tank and am considering trying to remove it with methyl hydrate which I know is safe for diesel engines, can I use it on a gas engine as well?
Posted by
admin on May 12th
From research initially, this “conversion” process would work better with an engine without all the pollution controls (namely the oxygen sensor) & a carburator that can be adjusted for fuel mixture. Do you agree? If you do not agree, why? Not everyone can afford to buy a “project car”. So, will the Hydrogen gas weaken or corrode parts of a recently factory built gasoline ICE (internal combustion engine).
Also, by using Hydrogen Gas as a supp;ement “only”, shouldn’t the engine’s computer be able to adjust to the change?
Posted by
admin on May 3rd
car has been sitting up for a couple of months, but was starting fine. now it acts like it wants to start on first try but doesn’t fully catch on. after that motor just turns over. it has plenty of gas in the tank. before this it had problems running hot. i took loose the heater core hoses to check the flow and the distributor was sitting under the flow of water. could this be the problem?
Posted by
admin on May 1st
1994 Accord EX 167,000 miles. After I drive around for awhile and shut the car off, If I try to restart it right away it won’t start. I can hear the fuel pump run everytime I turn the key. It cranks over very strong for quite some time. If I wait about a min, it starts right up again. I’m not sure if this could possibly have anything to do with it but just incase you need to know, there is a leak in the water pump seal because some fluid leaks out the weep hole. I have kept it topped off until I get a chance to replace it. The engine temp guage never gets over 3/8th so it’s not because of the the engine overheating. Please help if you know what you are talking about.
In response to the answer about the main relay. I’ve read that if the main relay is bad, the fuel pump won’t go on when the key is turned.
Can someone explain the oil leaking into the distributor if that even sounds right
Posted by
admin on May 1st
1996 Chevy Corsida, 108,000 miles. Have owned it for a little over a year.
Maintenance:
Water pump went out last September. Caused belt to break.
Both replaced.
Reguar oil changes
Sounds like grinding or very quick vibrations coming from the right side of my engine around my radiator. I read about this and a lot of people are saying it could be wheel bearings. My dad says it could also be some kind of fan going out.
The vibrations-grinding only happens when I accelerate from a stop and when I let off the gas petal, but not breaking. What is it and how much is it going to cost?
Posted by
admin on Apr 29th
car is 1991 mercedes 350sdl turbo diesel.
This doesn’t happen often, maybe about once every few weeks or so. Its happen 4 times since I got the car about 2 months ago.
The car engine will shut off but the radio stays on. This leads me to believe it is not a battery problem. People have told me idle speed is too low – but mine idles at 600/700 rpm – which should be fine.
These are the possibilities I believe are more likely:
Posted by
admin on Apr 23rd
I took my Larson 26 footer (2001) out of storage last week. I replaced the impeller and put a new battery in, and it started up great. Took it down the river without a problem for 30 minutes. After than, I filled the tank. A couple days later I took it out for a longer run including going through a lock before making my way to Lake Michigan. It ran fine until I got out of the lock. I opened up the engine to about 40 mph to get around a tugboat and the engine just stopped. Cold. Panic set it. I tried to restart it but it sounded like was flooded, not an electrical issue. After a few tries it got going but that was it for my big trip. We made it back to the lock slow without incident. However, once I got out I brought it up a little faster only to have it die once again. It was harder to restart this time. Made it a few more minutes before it died although I was just crawling along. This went on until I made it back to my dock. The next day, I changed the fuel filter (it looked clean), added a fuel stabilizer and started it up. It ran for a while out of gear and died. And then it ran a longer time including at high RPMs but now I am afraid to take it out. What on earth could this be? The carb? Bad fuel? Thanks in advance.
Guys, thanks so much. I am going out today or tomorrow to see if the new filter and additive made any difference. However, since water is never going to burn, if there is water on the carb, how do it get rid of it? Do I have to pay the mechanic to do a complete rebuild? That would be expensive and timely. Thanks again.
Posted by
admin on Apr 7th
I have a 02 Blaster (stock) and I’ve had no problems since I bought it 9 days ago, but after washing it 3 days ago, and letting it sit since I had work, It’s been running weird. I took it for a ride, and when i pulled the clutch in to put it into neutral and it stalled, after it stalled, i touched the engine and it was hot to the touch, yet it still took 5 good kicks to get it started, and the idling is very weak unless i rev the engine, and when i add barely any throttle, it shuts down. I took the seat, and the airbox cover off thinking the filter was wet, but it’s dry, but i heard like a…gurgling/sucking sound from the airbox when i took the filter off. It will idle fine for about 3 minutes, then just stall.Also I noticed its smoking A LOT more than usual, so I shook the gas up in the tank, and it still smokes. (My blaster is self mixing and I left the gas on while it was sitting) But I started it up yesterday, and it was running fine. Throttle response was crisp and clean.
Posted by
admin on Mar 26th
I just got my boat back from having a rebuilt engine in it. I launched the boat and took it for a run, not opened up just enough to keep it on plane then backed off the throttle to cruise. It ran great for the first outing. I could hear a popping noise coming from the carb. I let off on the gas and it died, and wouldn’t turn over. I took it back to the marina and he told me the motor was cooked. He said that I must have let the throttle of quickly which caused water to enter the exhaust and into the motor, which in turn blew the motor. Is this possible or is he filling me with false info so he doesn’t have to replace the motor? I had the motor running for not even 3 hrs total.
Posted by
admin on Mar 26th
cleaned my engine 1995 nissan altima) with cleaning/degreasing spray & “shine”, and then it hosed-off w/ a fine mist of water– The same method I’ve used more than once before, on the same car. I’ve had no problems in the past however, this time the engine is running very “rough”. . . . . “Sputtering” (for lack of a better term)– Maybe as-though it’s not firing on all pistons(???)(I don’t know much about engines[!])
The major trouble is during acceleration (especially up hills) but once I get-up to my desired speed, it runs smoothly, as though there’s no problem at all.
I was told that I probably got water somewhere where it shouldn’t be [duh!] & that simply driving around for a while would “blow-out” &/or “dry-up” the problem but, I’ve driven her 85+ miles (mostly highway / 55-70 MPH) now; and now, when I’m stopped & in-gear it doesn’t feel/sound AS bad , but the acceleration problem remains.
Also, during the “sputtering” acceleration, the Check Engine light will flash until about 30 seconds after I’ve reached a continuous speed– Then it remains on: steady. Now the car is dead. it cranks just fine but feels like no gas available. umm help
Well, i clean and took of all 4 spark plugs. there was excessive water and oil in the it. Spark plugs look horrible. Got it replace. car started but still sputter. so minor improvement. Check the wires and it too need replacement. walla! car drives like new!!
IN a way im thankful it happen or i would have still be using the old sparkplug and broken worn out wires. Or worst got it sent to mechannic! Its due for a change and all thanks to all response here
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