Posted by
admin on Apr 3rd
I have a ’07 Ford Taurus, 6 cylinder. About a month ago, while driving it home from work, the engine suddenly–and I do mean suddenly!–died right on the road. The car lost power without any warning, all the engine lights came on, the steering wheel locked up, and even with putting the car in neutral I didn’t have enough time to coast all the way over to the shoulder of the road.
I turned the engine key to the off position, and then tried to start the engine up again. It worked right away (no stalling or hesitation), and I was able to drive the car as normal..until today
The same exact thing happened, and the car started back immediately.
Posted by
admin on Mar 3rd
My mechanic did a complete head gasket job and rebuilt my transmission. The car ran well for about five weeks.Then the car died while I was driving , luckly I was able to start it after numerous attempts . He then replaced the fuel pump saying it was shot and there was possibly water in my gas which he removed. The car still stalls and he now has the car in his garage where he still can’t figure out what is wrong.
It is a 1989 Volvo 240 wagon 4 cyl. Since I last posted the original message the problem has been located . There is apparently a damaged wire that is connected to the fuel pump along with a relating part. The car should be fixed as of this writing , the cost is $365.00 . I have had all of the other things mentioned checked. My exhaust is almost completely redone and the altenator checks out ok. I have found a nearby volvo repair person and will go there for a once over check up when I get the car back. Many thanks to all who responded.
Posted by
admin on Feb 23rd
I am pretty mechanically inclined– but I am stumped. I am the One-owner of a 1997 Dodge Stratus with an auto trans, and the 2.4DOHC engine. Through the years the car has been maintained regularly, including oil changes, tires, struts, fuel pump and filter, and the head gasket 2 times. I do have the newer MLS head gasket on it. The car has never been ran hard, never abused, etc. I have confirmed the head gasket has not failed again. The car does have 175000 one-owner “babied” miles on her. The following is the problem: a few days ago I was driving the car on one of our “cooler” days [low 80 degrees], the check engine light started flashing intermitantly and the car started to spit and sputter like it was “missing”. I figured there may be some water in the gas since the outside temp went from the high nineties down to the low sixties at night so I went to the gas station and put gas in it along with a bottle of Heet. The car was on half a tank, after I put gas in it it was on 3\4. I drove it about another 3miles and the check engine light flashed again, car started to sputter – my wife was in the car and turned on the rear defrost by accident and the car straightened right up!!? Strange. The next day, same thing happened. I turned the rear defrost on – car straightened up, SES light stayed on, but steady. I went to the parts store and got a new coil, new spark plugs, went ahead and changed the oil and filter, and a spark plug wireset, and a pcv valve. While I was at it, I got a bottle of carb cleaner spray and cleaned out the throttle body very good, I also replaced some vacuum lines that were cracking. When I did all of this, The car started righ up, but had a slight rough idle. I thought maybe from the carb cleaner. I drove it around and she did great. Ran like new. The Service Engine Light did stay on. I did remove the cables and cleaned them, so I thought that was why the SES light was on. I got the car home and the rough idle had stopped. A couple of hours later I got into the car and it was harder to start than normal. I had to turn the rear defrost on again, and it straightened up. I had the car scanned and all it threw was a code 12 for the battery disconnect, a code 55, and a code 11 for the crank sensor. I dropped $90 for the sensor, installed it and the plugs fouled. Luckily I had another set and put them in. The car started [barely] after several tries, but idles terribly rough and dies. I visually inspected the timing belt, although it was replaced last year, and it looked to be in good shape and lined correctly. The last time I tried to start it, my son took the airbox off and i cranked it and he tapped on the idle air control valve and it idled alot better– but died when he stopped tapping it. Also, when It does idle and I give it the slightest bit of gas, it immidiately dies. I am at a loss!! It is throwing no more trouble codes, and everything but the O2, and MAP sensors and the IAC valve have been replaced. PLEASE, does anyone have any idea or have had the same problems? Thank yo MUCH for any info or help!!
Posted by
admin on Feb 20th
Last night I went to the grocery store. I was in the store for about 15 minutes and came out and my car would not start. I’ve never had trouble starting it before.
I turn the key and it sounds like its about to start as normal, if I give it gas it will rev once then it just sputters and dies. I’ve ensured the car has gas, I’ve added some HEAT to make sure there is not any water in the fuel.
What else should I consider before I have it towed?
Posted by
admin on Jan 14th
when I start the car the headlights flicker faintly and constantly but i dunno if this has anything to do with the car dieing down problem. When your going it will all of a sudden be as if you are pressing the gas and its just not going then come back. i did change a fuse for the radio when the cars accessories were on and it sparked but im in total confusion as to what this whole problem is? i was thinking maybe water or something else in gas tank? or the distributor, because i had just got it changed for a rebuilt one. and also when i start the car, but only on occasions it revs high like to 3000 then falls to like 2000 and just keeps jumping in between 1000 and 2000. i have to like shut off the car and start it like 10 times before it starts up at a normal rev.
Posted by
admin on Dec 10th
I just bought it two days ago.
Twist-N-Go Milano 150cc 2007. I can start the engine without a problem… the lights come on and the engine will run- it’s only a little rummblier than usual. I turn the throttle to give it gas and the engine dies. The lights stay on though and such. I’ve sat with the engine on for 5 minute periods before giving it gas and that hasn’t helped. What kind of damage do you think this has done? The only strange thing I’ve noticed before this is I’ve driven it 90 miles and the fuel gage hasn’t changed- it can only hold a gallon and a half. Could this be a sign I’m out of gas? Only today after the flood did it show my gas as being half empty. When I tilt it to the left it’s full/right it’s empty. How do I fix this? Any suggestions? Do you think my warranty will cover this? I should have gotten comprehensive and not just liability insurance.
Posted by
admin on Nov 18th
Sometimes when I’m driving my car, it just dies when I accelerate, like from a stop at a light. Other times,it loses power and stutters and then picks back up. It rides fine on the highway though. The car was in tip top shape until a few weeks ago, when someone thought it would be funny to put a couple of gallons of water in my fuel tank. Of course when this happened, my car didn’t run. I opened up the fuel line at the filter and drained most of the tank. I know for a fact that a considerable amount of water has gone through the fuel system. I changed the filter, so I know that isn’t an issue. Is it possible though that the fuel pump or injectors were damaged? I’ve been running water remover in the fuel but not injector cleaner. Also, the car is a 95 Lincoln Mark VIII with a 32 DOHC V8 with 70K miles. I replaced the TPS, IAC, plugs and wires in the past year, so the car was in tip top shape. I always run 93 octane in it. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? The car is not safe.
Posted by
admin on Nov 10th
92 Cavieler. 4 cyl. Now i have a few problems with this car but the main problem i have been having has been on and off for a few years, but frequent lately. When I drive it for more than 15 min, or when i come fast off the interestate to a stop or slow down, my car begins to rattle when (its an automatic) begins to slow/down shift, and usually when i get to 0-5mph it will die out on me. now sometimes i can go to 2, or 1 gear when i slow down and it wont die, but once it dies, it will start up, but when i shift to Drive, it dies out again. ususally takes about 30min of waiting before i can drive it again.
also worth noting the 2nd problem is fuel is not getting to car when it rains, so i believe water is getting in fuel system somwhere, line, injector, pump, i dont really know but from my experience i need to pump the gas like crazy for it to start when it rains. but once it drys up it starts normal.
Posted by
admin on Sep 8th
A couple days ago when we received some very cold weather ( I live in Canada), my truck had a hard time turning over, when it did, it ran for a bit then idled out when warming up. I restarted it again (after about 5 tries) and it seemed to be fine, minus some unusual shaking and clunking.
It got a little warmer the next day and ran fine (drove for about 80 kms) with no signs of issues.
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